diff --git a/_sass/color_schemes/voron-dark.scss b/_sass/color_schemes/voron-dark.scss index 6dd7ea88..fc6e9d23 100644 --- a/_sass/color_schemes/voron-dark.scss +++ b/_sass/color_schemes/voron-dark.scss @@ -17,6 +17,12 @@ $voron-red-70: #99000a; $voron-red-80: #dd0007; $voron-link-purple: #661aff; +//GAcolors +$neon-green-600: #00ff01; +$blue-600: #32a3e5; +$orange-600: #ff7a00; +$purple-650: #b888e8; + // // Body Elements // @@ -38,3 +44,31 @@ $code-background-color: $grey-dk-250; $search-background-color: $grey-dk-250; $table-background-color: $grey-dk-250; $feedback-color: darken($sidebar-color, 3%); + +.color-blind-red { color: $red-300; } +.color-blind-green { color: $neon-green-600; } +.color-blind-yellow { color: $yellow-200; } +.color-blind-blue {color: $blue-600; } +.color-blind-orange {color: $orange-600; } +.color-blind-red-red {color: red; } +.color-blind-grey-dk-100 { color: $grey-dk-000; } +.color-blind-purple { color: $purple-650; } + +// for double underlines +.underline-double-trouble { + background-image: linear-gradient(to bottom, red 33%, transparent 33%, transparent 66%, red 66%, red); + background-position: 0 1.03em; + background-repeat: repeat-x; + background-size: 2px 6px; + } + +//font sizes +.fs_percent_110 { font-size: 110%; } + +a:link { + font-weight: 700; +} + +input[type=text] { + color: $grey-lt-300; +} diff --git a/build/electrical/images/BTT SKR V1.4-SCH.pdf b/build/electrical/images/BTT SKR V1.4-SCH.pdf new file mode 100644 index 00000000..b9459db9 Binary files /dev/null and b/build/electrical/images/BTT SKR V1.4-SCH.pdf differ diff --git a/build/electrical/images/BTT SKR V1.4PIN.pdf b/build/electrical/images/BTT SKR V1.4PIN.pdf new file mode 100644 index 00000000..bb33db42 Binary files /dev/null and b/build/electrical/images/BTT SKR V1.4PIN.pdf differ diff --git a/build/electrical/images/ConnectPitoMCU-Instructions.png b/build/electrical/images/ConnectPitoMCU-Instructions.png new file mode 100644 index 00000000..c8fb4fa3 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b/build/electrical/index.md index 5e44cbe2..7b29f93f 100644 --- a/build/electrical/index.md +++ b/build/electrical/index.md @@ -4,6 +4,7 @@ title: Electrical Wiring parent: The Build has_children: true nav_order: 2 +has_toc: false --- # Electrical Wiring @@ -42,11 +43,11 @@ For larger wires, such as heater cartridge wiring, heatshrink tubing is helpful. ## Cables -Silicone wiring has been specified because it has a high strand count which means it has higher fatigue life. Silicone insulation withstands heat and is more flexible which is good in high movement applications. It is less prone to snagging on other wires or the walls inside the cable chain. Check your cable loom before installing the chains. +Silicone wiring has been specified because it has a high strand count which means it has higher fatigue life. Silicone insulation withstands heat and is more flexible which is good in high movement applications. It is less prone to snagging on other wires or the walls inside the cable chain. Check your cable loom before installing the chains. PTFE or Heluflon wires are a premium option as they have a thinner insulation and a lower friction coefficient, which increases bending capabilities and decreases wear. But these advantages are most useful in printers that use cable chains. For printers with an umbilical cord cabling setup (V0 Toolhead, Legacy), they might be overkill. Automation cable such as IGUS can be used, but the minimum bend radius of the cable needs to be verified as the typical bend radius for Voron cable chains is very small. -See the cable lengths and count section for specific counts. Do not downsize the hot end heater wires, they are oversized for safety reasons. +See the cable lengths and count section for specific counts. Do not downsize the hot end heater wires, they are oversized for safety reasons. You may add additional wires to your cable chains as a replacement in case of wire breaks. However, these cables will be heated/cooled and moved around as much as your live cables and may be broken already when you need them! So may be better to keep extra wires as spares outside of the printer. @@ -60,7 +61,7 @@ There is no standard either for the color of wire on stepper motors, nor for the There are 3 basic options for identifying windings: 1) Check the documentation. Many motors come with a card which tells you what wire colors are on the same winding. If there's no card, the manufacturer's website may have something. 2) Use a multimeter: put your meter in "continuity" mode. Pick one wire, and then find any other wire that shows continuity with it. Those two wires are on the same winding. By process of elimination, it should be safe to assume the other two represent the other winding. -3) If you don't have a meter available, you can twist 2 wires together, and then try to spin the shaft of the motor. If the wires are on the same winding, it will become noticably harder to spin the shaft. +3) If you don't have a meter available, you can twist 2 wires together, and then try to spin the shaft of the motor. If the wires are on the same winding, it will become noticeably harder to spin the shaft. ### Symptoms of miswired motors @@ -68,10 +69,9 @@ Traditionally, trying to move a stepper that's miswired, has either resulted in ``` TMC 'stepper_y' reports DRV_STATUS: 001900d0 s2vsa=1(LowSideShort_A!) ola=1(OpenLoad_A!) olb=1(OpenLoad_B!) CS_ACTUAL=25 -Transition to shutdown state: TMC 'stepper_y' reports error: DRV_STATUS: 001900d0 s2vsa=1(LowSideShort_A!) ola=1(OpenLoad_A!) +Transition to shutdown state: TMC 'stepper_y' reports error: DRV_STATUS: 001900d0 s2vsa=1(LowSideShort_A!) ola=1(OpenLoad_A!) ``` - ## DC Power Supply Wiring Many of the latest generation of Voron printers spec the use of two or more independent power supplies. That can include 24V, 5V, and 12V power supplies depending on configuration. @@ -108,13 +108,13 @@ Different controller boards use different terminal types. The RAMPS boards use For wiring the stepper motors, keep the same wire color sequence that your stepper motors came with and use that same sequence for all stepper motors in the printer. If the BOM spec motors from StepperOnline are used, the wires should be in the color order as shown in the wiring diagrams. -If the purchased steppers do not match the color order in the documentation, there is no need to rewire just to change colors. There is not a "standard" wire color order for these parts. If the builder decides to reterminate to change connector types or whatever, be sure to use the same order as before. The spec motors also come with a datasheet or card so you can double check the work. One can also use a multimeter to find wire pairs in the motor by measuring continuity between leads. Each lead should have continuity to the other lead in its pair. +If the purchased steppers do not match the color order in the documentation, there is no need to rewire just to change colors. There is not a "standard" wire color order for these parts. If the builder decides to re-terminate to change connector types or whatever, be sure to use the same order as before. The spec motors also come with a datasheet or card so you can double-check the work. One can also use a multimeter to find wire pairs in the motor by measuring continuity between leads. Each lead should have continuity to the other lead in its pair. -**Important:** If the motors are found later on to be going the wrong direction, repinning the connectors is _not_ required. The direction can be inverted in the software configuration later. +**Important:** If the motors are found later on to be going the wrong direction, re-pinning the connectors is _not_ required. The direction can be inverted in the software configuration later. ### Inductive Probe Wiring (V1, Trident, V2, Switchwire) -The BOM spec PL-08N inductive probe (and the alterate Omron probe) that is used for Bed Mesh, Z Tilt Adjust (V1/Legacy) or Quad Gantry Leveling (V2) needs to be powered with 12-24V, not the typical 5V that is used for end stop switches. This is critical because if powered with 5V the sense distance is reduced enough to cause a nozzle crash. +The BOM spec PL-08N inductive probe (and the alternate Omron probe) that is used for Bed Mesh, Z Tilt Adjust (V1/Legacy) or Quad Gantry Leveling (V2) needs to be powered with 12-24V, not the typical 5V that is used for end stop switches. This is critical because if powered with 5V the sense distance is reduced enough to cause a nozzle crash. If not closely following the BOM spec, ensure that the inductive probe purchased is a normally closed (NC) version rather than normally open (NO). The configuration cannot be changed as that is built specifically from the factory. A normally open (NO) probe may cause crashes if a wire breaks. @@ -130,11 +130,11 @@ Below is a circuit diagram with more details. ### Endstop Wiring -Endstops can be wired one of two ways: normally closed (NC) or normally open (NO). For normally closed configurations, the endstop switch allows current to flow through when not triggered. For normally open configurations, the endstop switch only allows current to flow through whe triggered. +Endstops can be wired one of two ways: normally closed (NC) or normally open (NO). For normally closed configurations, the endstop switch allows current to flow through when not triggered. For normally open configurations, the endstop switch only allows current to flow through when triggered. While both of these configurations will work fine in an ideal world, normally closed (NC) configurations are more robust. If a wire breaks or a terminal becomes disconnected, the printer will think the endstop has triggered and will stop movement before the toolhead crashes into the bed or frame. Note that you should always still observe the homing routine - an intermittent break in an X or Y wire can still result in a crash as the nozzle will drop to where it thinks the Z endstop is and instead hit the bed (not applicable to V0 or Switchwire). -Wiring mechanical endstop switches for NC operation is easy as the BOM spec switches have 3 pins exposed. With a multimeter, probe each combination of the three pins until a pair is found that has continuity (<10 ohms resistance) when the switch is not triggered (normal state), but does not have continuity (>10M ohms resistance) when the switch is triggered (depressed). Typically the outer two pins are the NC pins, but should be verified prior to installation. +Wiring mechanical endstop switches for NC operation is easy as the BOM spec switches have 3 pins exposed. With a multimeter, probe each combination of the three pins until a pair is found that has continuity (<10 ohms resistance) when the switch is not triggered (normal state), but does not have continuity (>10M ohms resistance) when the switch is triggered (depressed). Typically, the outer two pins are the NC pins, but should be verified prior to installation. ![](./images/endstop_switch_wiring.png) @@ -154,18 +154,18 @@ Follow the links to the wiring configuration guides specific to your printer and * [V0.1 - SKR Pico](./v0_skr_pico_wiring.md) ### Voron 1 -* [V1 - SKR 1.3](./v1_skr13_wiring.md) -* [V1 - SKR 1.4](./v1_skr14_wiring.md) +* [V1 - SKR V1.3](./v1_skr13_wiring.md) +* [V1 - SKR V1.4](./v1_skr14_wiring.md) ### Trident * [Trident - BigTreeTech Octopus](./v2_octopus_wiring.md) * [Trident - MKS Makerbase Monster8](./v2_monster8_wiring.md) ### Voron 2 -* [V2 - SKR 1.3](./v2_skr13_wiring.md) -* [V2 - SKR 1.4](./v2_skr14_wiring.md) +* [V2 - SKR V1.3](./v2_skr13_wiring.md) +* [V2 - SKR V1.4](./v2_skr14_uart_wiring.md) * [V2 - FLYboard FLYF407ZG](./v2_flyf407zg_wiring.md) -* [V2 - Fysetc Spider v1.1](./v2_spider_wiring.md) +* [V2 - Fysetc Spider V1.1](./v2_spider_wiring.md) * [V2 - BigTreeTech Octopus](./v2_octopus_wiring.md) * [V2 - MKS Makerbase Monster8](./v2_monster8_wiring.md) diff --git a/build/electrical/skrv14_RaspberryPi.md b/build/electrical/skrv14_RaspberryPi.md new file mode 100644 index 00000000..f793ff67 --- /dev/null +++ b/build/electrical/skrv14_RaspberryPi.md @@ -0,0 +1,19 @@ +--- +nav_exclude: true +--- +# Raspberry Pi + +## Connection Using Separate Power Supply +* Since the BTT SKR V1.4/V1.4Turbo board does not produce enough amps to power the Raspberry Pi directly, the Raspberry Pi can be powered by an independent power supply. +* Use at least 24awg wire for V+ and GND connections to the Pi's power supply +* Tie all the DC 0V (typically labelled V-) lines for all the DC power supplies together to ensure that all power supplies have the same voltage reference. +* The below diagram, shows the connections for both the "Separate Power Supply" connections and "UART serial" connections. If "Separate Power Supply" connection is wanted and "UART serial" connection is not wanted, then only use the 5V and GND connections from the diagram below (i.e. the TX and RX lines are not needed). + +###### ![](./images/SKRV1.4T_to_Pi_UART.png) {#SKRV1.4T_to_Pi_UART} + +## Control + +* Voron Design recommends using USB to control the SKR V1.4/V1.4Turbo, which simply requires connecting a USB-A to USB-A type B cable between the SKR V1.4/V1.4Turbo and Pi. +* The option also exists to use a UART connection from the Pi header, in place of the USB. If you prefer this option, please see the wiring diagram located above in [Connection Using Separate Power Supply](#connection-using-separate-power-supply) and use the instructions below on the Raspberry Pi. You will want to perform the instructions below **after Mailsail/Fluidd is installed on the Raspberry Pi.** + +###### ![](./images/ConnectPitoMCU-Instructions.png) {#ConnectPitoOctopusPro-Instructions_10} \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/build/electrical/skrv14_Resources.md b/build/electrical/skrv14_Resources.md new file mode 100644 index 00000000..00c48874 --- /dev/null +++ b/build/electrical/skrv14_Resources.md @@ -0,0 +1,26 @@ +--- +nav_exclude: true +--- +## Color PIN Diagram for SKR V1.4/V1.4Turbo + +For reference, here is the Color PIN diagram for the SKR V1.4/V1.4Turbo + +###### ![](./images/SKRV1.4_TURBO_Colored_PIN_Diagram.jpg) {#SKRV1.4_TURBO_Colored_PIN_Diagram} + +* If you want to open the above diagram, in a new tab of your web browser, and have the ability to zoom and download the diagram in PDF format then [click here](./images/SKRV1.4_TURBO_Colored_PIN_Diagram.pdf){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"} + +* If you want to open the above diagram, in a new tab of your web browser, and have the ability to zoom and download the diagram in JPG format then [click here](./images/SKRV1.4_TURBO_Colored_PIN_Diagram.jpg){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"} + +## Original SKR V1.4/V1.4Turbo Pinout + +For reference, here is the original pinout of the SKR V1.4/V1.4Turbo + +* Note: If you see a conflict between the original pinout and any other source, please refer back to the [BigTreeTech SKR V1.4/V1.4Turbo schematic diagram](<./images/BTT SKR V1.4-SCH.pdf>){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"} + +###### ![](./images/SKR-V1.4-pinout.jpg) {#original-SKR-V1.4-pinout} + +* If you want to open the above diagram, in a new tab of your web browser, and have the ability to zoom and download the diagram in PDF format then [click here](<./images/BTT SKR V1.4PIN.pdf>){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"} + +## The BTT's GitHub Repo for the SKR V1.4/V1.4Turbo board + +* BTT's documentation for SKR V1.4/V1.4Turbo board is [located here](https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-V1.3/tree/master/BTT%20SKR%20V1.4){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"} \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/build/electrical/skrv14init_prep_tmc_drvs_uart.md b/build/electrical/skrv14init_prep_tmc_drvs_uart.md new file mode 100644 index 00000000..54c9bdbe --- /dev/null +++ b/build/electrical/skrv14init_prep_tmc_drvs_uart.md @@ -0,0 +1,46 @@ +--- +nav_exclude: true +--- +# Preparation of TMC2209 and TMC2226 UART Stepper Motor Drivers + +* __IMPORTANT:__ The V2 printer does not use sensorless homing. **If using the TMC2209 or TMC2226 stepper motor drivers with the SKR V1.4/Turbo, there are three methods to disable sensorless homing.** + +1. Cut off the DIAG pin from the TMC2209 or TMC2226. +2. Use stackable header pins to ensure the DIAG pin does not make an electrical connection to the SKR board. +3. Desolder the DIAG pin from the stepper motor driver step stick. + +## Disable Sensorless Homing - Method #1 - Cut Off the DIAG pin: + +* **Use a small pair of wire cutters and remove the pin marked in PURPLE (DIAG PIN) from the TMC2209 or TMC2226 stepper motor driver step stick** + +###### ![](./images/tmc2209-pin-removal.png) {#tmc2209-pin-removal_uart_triskr-expmot} + +## Disable Sensorless Homing - Method #2 - Use Stackable Header pins: + +* By not adding the stackable header pin under the DIAG PIN location, the DIAG PIN will not make an electrical connection to the board. The added benefit with stackable header pins is the driver socket will also have more room for air flow to help with dissipation of heat. See the diagram below: + +###### ![](./images/disable_sensor-less_homing_TMC2209_TMC2226.jpg) {#disable_sensor-less_homing_uart_triskr-expmot} + +* Here is the URL from the above diagram. You can purchase the [Stackable Header PINS from Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Connector-Assortment-Stackable-Breakaway/dp/B07CWSXY7P){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"}. + +## Disable Sensorless Homing - Method #3 - Desolder the DIAG pin: + +* **Desolder the pin, marked in purple (DIAG PIN), from the TMC2209 or TMC2226 stepper motor driver step stick** at the location shown [here](#tmc2209-pin-removal_uart_triskr-expmot) + +* If you need help with desoldering, please [consult this guide](https://www.instructables.com/The-Ultimate-Guide-to-Desoldering/){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"} + +## Further Reading + +* [Further information about the TMC2209/TMC2226 DIAG PIN problem](https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-Stepper-Motor-Driver/blob/master/TMC2209/V1.2/TMC2209%20problems%20solving.pdf){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"}. The TMC2226 stepper motor driver's DIAG pin is also used for "output only". Therefore, it will have the same issue as the TMC2209. Please see [page 9 in the TMC2226 datasheet](https://www.trinamic.com/fileadmin/assets/Products/ICs_Documents/TMC2226_Datasheet_V106.pdf#page=9){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"} + +## Other Considerations when using TMC2209, or TMC2226 (TMCxxxx drivers with StallGuard) + +* __IMPORTANT:__ If you are using a TMC2209 or TMC2226 stepper motor driver for the **extruder motor and you want to use a filament run out sensor**, please do one of the following: + +1. Cut off the DIAG pin for the **stepper motor driver step stick** in the **extruder** driver socket (E0 or E1 on the SKR board); [The location of the DIAG pin](#tmc2209-pin-removal_uart_triskr-expmot) or + +2. Use stackable header pins and ensure the **DIAG pin does not get plugged into the SKR board's** extruder driver socket location (E0 or E1 on the SKR board); [The location of the DIAG pin](#disable_sensor-less_homing_uart_triskr-expmot) or + +3. Desolder the DIAG pin from the extruder driver step stick [The location of the DIAG pin](#tmc2209-pin-removal_uart_triskr-expmot); + +* **The DIAG PIN must be disconnected from the SKR board on the extruder driver step stick for the filament run out sensor to work properly**, if you are using a TMC2209 or TMC2226. \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/build/electrical/v2_skr14_uart_wiring.md b/build/electrical/v2_skr14_uart_wiring.md new file mode 100644 index 00000000..25adf9f4 --- /dev/null +++ b/build/electrical/v2_skr14_uart_wiring.md @@ -0,0 +1,160 @@ +--- +layout: default +title: "Voron V2 - SKR V1.4/Turbo (TMC2208, TMC2209, TMC2225, TMC2226) Wiring" +nav_exclude: true +--- + +# Voron V2 - SKR V1.4/Turbo (TMC2208, TMC2209, TMC2225, TMC2226) Wiring + +## Initial Preparation Needed for TMC2209 or TMC2226 Stepper Motor Drivers +
+ +* See [the Initial Preparation for TMC2209 or TMC2226 Drivers](./skrv14init_prep_tmc_drvs_uart#preparation-of-tmc2209-and-tmc2226-uart-stepper-motor-drivers){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"} + +## Initial Removal of Jumpers + +Remove **all YELLOW** on-board jumpers, located at the positions shown below: + +###### ![](./images/v2_skrv14_PREP-removal.png) {#v2_skrv14_PREP-removal_uart_v2} + +## Initial Preparation - Set Jumpers + +* Set the on-board jumpers, located at the positions as shown by the **GREEN** jumpers in the diagram below: + +###### ![](./images/v2_skr14T_UART_PREP.png) {#v2_skr14T_UART_PREP_v2} + +* If you want to open the above picture, in a new tab of your web browser, then [click here](./images/v2_skr14T_UART_PREP.png){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"} + +## Voltage Selection Headers + +* **Set the USB-PWR jumper to the VDD position (as shown in the PURPLE box)** to avoid the interaction between the USB 5V of Raspberry Pi and the DC-DC 5V of the motherboard. + +* The NPWR jumper setting will decide the source of the board's NeoPixel connector's +V PIN. The NeoPixel connector can be sourced from the board itself or from an external DCDC bridge module. One can purchase an external DCDC bridge module (sold separately) to power 5V NeoPixel LEDs. This bridge module is called the "DCDC Mode V1.0" board. Since the Voron printer does not require the extra DCDC bridge module, **set the NPWR jumper to indicate that the DCDC bridge module is not attached to the board, as shown in the ORANGE box on the diagram below.** + +__IMPORTANT:__ **Double check all the** __GREEN__ **jumpers are set appropriately, especially the jumpers called out by the _COLORED BOXES_, BEFORE the power supply is connected.** + +###### ![](./images/v2_skr14T_UART_voltageselect.png) {#v2_skr14T_UART_voltageselect_v2} + +* If you want to open the above picture, in a new tab of your web browser, then [click here](./images/v2_skr14T_UART_voltageselect.png){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"} + +## Stepper Motor Drivers +* - [ ] Inspect the stepper motor drivers for left over rosin, and clean with IPA, if needed +* - [ ] Before installing heat sinks on to the stepper motor drivers, [please read this](#please-ensure-the-heat-sinks-are-installed-before-use) +* - [ ] Install heat sinks on all stepper motor drivers + +## MCU X/Y/E, Hot End + +* - [ ] Connect 24V and GND (V+ and V-) from the PSU to Power In +* - [ ] Connect stepper driver for the B Motor (gantry left) into position X (driver socket) +* - [ ] Plug in stepper motor for the B Motor (gantry left) into position X (motor connector) +* - [ ] Connect stepper driver for the A Motor (gantry right) into position Y (driver socket) +* - [ ] Plug in stepper motor for the A Motor (gantry right) into position Y (motor connector) +* - [ ] Connect stepper driver for the extruder motor into position E0 (driver socket) +* - [ ] Plug in stepper motor for the extruder motor into position E0 (motor connector) +* - [ ] Connect the hot end heater to HE0 (P2.7) +* - [ ] Connect the part cooling fan to FAN0 (P2.3) +* - [ ] Connect the hot end fan to HE1 (P2.4) +* - [ ] Connect the hot end thermistor to TH0 (P0.24) +* - [ ] Connect the X endstop to X-STOP (P1.29) +* - [ ] Connect the Y endstop to Y-STOP (P1.28) +* - [ ] Connect USB Cable to your SKR 1.4/Turbo,  **but do not connect it yet to your Raspberry Pi** + +## MCU X/Y/E, Hot End Wiring Diagram + +###### ![](./images/v2tri_Wiring_Diagram_skrv14T_XYE_UART.jpg) {#v2tri_Wiring_Diagram_skrv14T_XYE_UART_v2} + +* If you want to open the above diagram, in a new tab of your web browser, and have the ability to zoom and download the diagram in JPG format then [click here](./images/v2tri_Wiring_Diagram_skrv14T_XYE_UART.jpg){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"} + +## MCU Z, Bed, Exhaust Fan + +* - [ ] Connect 24V and GND (V+ and V-) from the PSU to Power In +* - [ ] Connect stepper driver for the Z into positions X (driver socket) +* - [ ] Plug in stepper motor for the Z into positions X (motor connector) +* - [ ] Connect stepper driver for the Z1 into positions Y (driver socket) +* - [ ] Plug in stepper motor for the Z1 into positions Y (motor connector) +* - [ ] Connect stepper driver for the Z2 into positions Z (driver socket) +* - [ ] Plug in stepper motor for the Z2 into positions Z_1 (motor connector) +* - [ ] Connect stepper driver for the Z3 into positions E0 (driver socket) +* - [ ] Plug in stepper motor for the Z3 into positions E0 (motor connector) +* - [ ] Connect the bed SSR (DC Control Side) to FAN0 (P2.3) +* - [ ] Connect the controller fans to HE1 (P2.4) +* - [ ] Connect the chamber exhaust fan to HE0 (P2.7) +* - [ ] Connect the heated bed thermistor to TB (P0.25) +* - [ ] Connect the Z endstop to Z-STOP (P1.27) +* - [ ] Connect the Probe Signal (with **BAT85 diode**) to PROBE connector (P0.10) +* - [ ] Connect the Probe PWR and GND to FAN2 +* - [ ] Connect USB Cable to your SKR 1.4/Turbo,  **but do not connect it yet to your Raspberry Pi** + +BAT85 +: a Schottky barrier diode. BAT85 is needed to protect the SKR board (MCU board) from being fried. An Inductive Probe device (Omron TL-Q5MC2; Omron TL-Q5MC2-Z or Panasonic GX-HL15BI-P) communicates at a much higher voltage level (10V - 30V) then the MCU board. The BAT85 is used to protect the input signal PIN of the MCU board; without the BAT85 the MCU board will be damaged. If two BAT85s are used in series, the circuit will protect the MCU board and still allow the inductive probe to function properly. [For more information, click here](./index#bat85-diode){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"} + +## MCU Z, Bed, Exhaust Fan Wiring Diagram + +###### ![](./images/v2_Wiring_Diagram_skrv14T_Z_UART.jpg) {#v2_Wiring_Diagram_skrv14T_Z_UART_v2} + +* If you want to open the above diagram, in a new tab of your web browser, and have the ability to zoom and download the diagram in JPG format then [click here](./images/v2_Wiring_Diagram_skrv14T_Z_UART.jpg){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"} + +## Please Ensure the Heat Sinks are Installed Before Use + +Note on the Orientation of the Stepper Motor Driver's Heat Sinks +: Place the heat sinks for the stepper motor drivers so that the orientation of the fins on the heat sinks are parallel to the air flow from the controller fans once the MCU board is installed on the DIN rail. Ensure the heat sinks are **not touching** the solder joints located on the top of the step stick. Please note, that your placement of heat sinks may be different from the orientation shown below. + +## MCU X/Y/E, Hot End with Heat Sinks Installed + +###### ![](./images/v2_skr14T_XYE_UART_heatsinks.png) {#v2_skr14T_XYE_UART_heatsinks1_v2} + +## MCU Z, Bed, Exhaust Fan with Heat Sinks Installed + +###### ![](./images/v2_skr14T_Z_UART_heatsinks2.png) {#v2_skr14T_Z_UART_heatsinks2_v2} + +## Raspberry Pi + +## Power +* The BTT SKR V1.4/Turbo board is **NOT capable of providing 5V power** to run your Raspberry Pi. + +## Setting up UART Serial Communications with the Raspberry Pi + +* see [the SKR V1.4/Turbo Raspberry Pi Section](./skrv14_RaspberryPi#raspberry-pi){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"} + +## SSR Wiring + +* Wire colors will vary depending on your locale. + +###### ![](./images/two_skrv1.4inUART-ssr-wiring.png) {#two_skrv1.4inUART-ssr-wiring_uart_v2} + +* If you want to open the above diagram, in a new tab of your web browser, and have the ability to zoom and download the diagram in PNG format then [click here](./images/two_skrv1.4inUART-ssr-wiring.png){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"} + +## The Klipper Configuration file for SKR V1.4/Turbo board + +The Klipper Configuration file from VoronDesign/Voron-2 GitHub Repo for SKR V1.4/Turbo board is [located here](https://raw.githubusercontent.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/Voron2.4/firmware/klipper_configurations/SKR_1.4/Voron2_SKR_14_Config.cfg){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"}; + +## URL Resources Links for the SKR V1.4/Turbo (PIN Diagrams and Repo) + +* see [The SKR V1.4/Turbo Resource Section](./skrv14_Resources#color-pin-diagram-for-skr-v14v14turbo){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"} + +## Advanced Setup - Resource Link for SPI setup (TMC2100, TMC2130, TMC5160, TMC5161, TMC5160HV, TMC5160_PRO) + +* see [The SKR V1.4/Turbo SPI Setup Section](../../community/electronics/GadgetAngel/v2_skr14_wiring#voron-v2---btt-skr-v14turbo-wiring-for-both-spi-and-uart-modes){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"} + +## After I have Wired up the MCU Board, What Comes Next? + +1. Once the MCU board is wired up and wire management has been performed, the next step is to install Mainsail/Fluidd or Octoprint, please see [The Build ═► Software Installation](../../build/software/index#software-installation){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"} + +2. Once Mainsail/Fluidd or Octoprint has been installed, the next step is to **compile and install** the Klipper Firmware, please see [The Build ═► Software Installation -> Firmware Flashing(Header) -> SKR 1.4](../../build/software/skr13_klipper#skr-1314-klipper-firmware){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"} + +3. Once the MCU board has the Klipper Firmware Installed, the next step is to **create/edit** the Klipper Config file (Voron2_SKR_14_Config.cfg rename it to printer.cfg) to ensure your Voron build matches your Klipper Config file, please see [the file located here; Select "V2 SKR 1.4"](../../build/software/configuration#initial-voron-printer-configuration){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"}; + + * Please use the Color PIN Diagrams, [displayed here](./skrv14_Resources#color-pin-diagram-for-skr-v14v14turbo){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"}, as a source of information; + + * Please consult [The Build ═► Software Configuration](../../build/software/configuration#software-configuration){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"} on how to edit the Klipper Config file. + +4. After **creating/editing** the Klipper Config file (Voron2_SKR_14_Config.cfg renamed to printer.cfg), the next step is to check all the Motors and the mechanics of the Voron printer, please see [The Build ═► Initial Startup Checks](../../build/startup/index#initial-startup-checks){:target="_blank" rel="noopener"} + + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/build/electrical/v2_skr14_wiring.md b/build/electrical/v2_skr14_wiring.md deleted file mode 100644 index 8549b2c8..00000000 --- a/build/electrical/v2_skr14_wiring.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,55 +0,0 @@ ---- -layout: default -title: "Voron V2 - SKR 1.4 Wiring" -nav_exclude: true ---- - -# Voron V2 - SKR 1.4 Wiring - -## Initial Preparation - -* If using the TMC2209 stepper drivers, use a small pair of wire cutters and remove the pin marked in purple. This is to disable sensorless homing which is not needed for the V2. - -![](./images/tmc2209-pin-removal.png) - -* Reconfigure the on-board jumpers as shown. - -![](./images/skr14-preparation.png) - -## MCU X/Y/E, Hot End - -* Place stepper drivers for X, Y, and E in positions X, Y, and E0 -* Plug in stepper motors for X, Y, and E in positions X, Y, and E0 -* Plug Hot End thermistor to thermistor TH0 (P0.24) -* Plug Hot End heater in to HE0 (P2.7) -* Plug Hot End Fan in to HE1 (P2.4) -* Plug Part Cooling Fan in to Fan (P2.3) -* Connect X end stop to +X connector (P1.28) -* Connect Y end stop to +Y connector (P1.26) -* Wire 24V and 0V from DC power supply to Power In -* Connect USB Cable to your SKR 1.4, but do not connect it yet to your Raspberry Pi - -![](./images/v2-skr14-mcu-xye.png) - -## MCU Z, Bed, Exhaust Fan - -* Place stepper drivers for Z0, Z1, Z2, and Z3 into positions X, Y, Z, and E0 -* Plug in stepper motors for Z0, Z1, Z2, and Z3 into positions X, Y, Z, and E0 -* Plug Bed Heater thermistor in to TB (P0.23) -* Plug in Exhaust Fan in to HE0 (P2.7) -* Plug in Controller Fan in to HE1 (P2.4) -* Plug SSR Control for Heated Bed in to Fan (P2.3) -* Plug Z Endstop Switch into -Z (P1.25) -* Plug Probe PWR and GND into FAN2 -* Plug Probe Signal (with BAT85 diode) in to Probe (P0.10) -* Plug display wires in to EXP1 and EXP2 -* Wire 24V and 0V from DC power supply to Power In -* Connect USB Cable to your SKR 1.4, but do not connect it yet to your Raspberry Pi - -![](./images/v2-skr14-mcu-z.png) - -## SKR 1.4 Pinout - -For reference, here is the pinout of the SKR 1.4 - -![](./images/SKR-V1.4-pinout.jpg)